Note:
There are 4 Unnamed climbs where the approach trail meets the wall:
5.11- 8m 4 clips.
5.11+ 8m 5 clips steep and entertaining . Short but quite good.
5.11- 11m 4 clips starts up obvious corner and then steep face on L. A bit weird getting to anchor.
5-10- 10m 5 clips steep bulge to easy slab.
All could do with more cleaning as the builder(s) only cleaned the holds that they used. Also, all the anchors except the corner route need fixing as they comprise single quick-links through hangers so that the lowering link parallels the rock.
The Balcony
Ape Scrape
• 8m (26ft) • FA: Tim and Meahgan Mang
Cheap Thrills and Monkey Skills
• 9m (30ft) • FA: Tim and Meahgan Mang
Lemur Screamer
• 7m (23ft) • FA: Tim Mang and Brand Cooke
Limp Chimp
• 7m (23ft) • FA: Tim Mang
The Libido Cafe
Fat
• 10m (33ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Ace Frehley
• 10m (33ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Spro
• 9m (30ft) • FA: JD LeBlanc
Le Secteur Bumbly
Out on a Limb
• 5 bolts • 13m (43ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Bombus
• 5 bolts • 13m (43ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Sacagawea
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: Darren Tremaine
Pleb
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Grimmia
• 4 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Petra
Fagin's Fantasy
• 6 bolts • 17m (56ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Babe
• 8 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Robot Priests
• 8 bolts • 18m (59ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Temple Recommend (aka A Man and His Camel)
• 7 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Knut Rokne
Deep Shag
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Todd Guyn
A67
• 9 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: Ryan Johnston & Daren Tremaine
Booooties
Start on A67. Continue right at the large pod and up to finish on Booty Juice.
A1
Start on A67. Traverse right after the high shallow pocket Vulcan-grip crux on A67 (7th bolt), falling into the crux of Booty Juice with which you finish. Spicy, depending on clipping choices.
Heavy Expectations
Start on A67. Traverse right after the Vulcan move as per A1. Finish on Mighty Expectations.
57th Expectation
Start on A67. Climb into the big pod and finish right on Mighty Expectations.
67 Shags
Start on A67. Traverse left into Deep Shag before the last bolt on A67. Awkward and a bit spicy depending on which bolts you clip (or neglect to clip).
Heavy Wetting
• 10 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: Ryan Johnston
Heavy Wetting has effectively been superseded by the more direct climb A67.
Booty Juice
• 10 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Darren Tremaine
The Mighty Expectation of Relief
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
This Week in Bible Prophecy
• 10 bolts • 17m (56ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Swimming to Cambodia
• 11 bolts • 17m (56ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Start on Bible Prophecy, traverse left at the bulge past a connecting bolt into Mighty Expectations. Continue left into A67 to finish.
Saint Daren
Same start as Bible Prophecy. Once on Mighty, finish as per that route.
Bible Juice
Same start as Bible Prophecy. Up and traverse left to where Booty Juice meets. Finish on that line.
Saint Ryan
The opposite of St Daren; traversing (right) at the same point on the wall.
The Blink's Powerful
• 5 bolts • 11m (36ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Slot Jockeys
• 4 bolts • 11m (36ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
The Soft Rock Cafe
Sidestep
• 3 bolts • 9m (30ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Double Digit Inflation
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: Jon Jones
A Pine in the Ass
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Scat
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Raisin Sex
• 6 bolts • 13m (43ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Seeing Red
• 5 bolts • 9m (30ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Blind Faith
• 5 bolts • 13m (43ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Midan Tahrir
Hot Pants Explosion
• 5 bolts • 11m (36ft) • FA: Marcus Newman
English Soccer Hooligans
• 5 bolts • 13m (43ft) • FA: Marcus Newman
The Jester
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Escape Pod
• 7 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Core Shot
• 15m (49ft) • FA: Adam Currie
Con Dila
• 8 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
The Silver Rocket
• 7 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Westland Dodge
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
The Cryocooler
• 7 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Illusion Buttress
Playing the Slots
• 4 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Partners in Crime
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Bottom Feeder
• 7 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
No Rest for the Wicked
• 5 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Jon Jones
There Goes the Neighbourhood
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Jon Jones
The Korova Milk Bar
Chicklet Fangs
• 6 bolts
Start ~20m uphill from Alberta Bound/Got Mersey Beat. Climb up the steep, bulge, moving left until below an open book corner. Climb up into the corner with difficulty and then cruise to the top. There is a "right" way and a hard way to do this.
Alberta Bound
• 15m (49ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Got Mersey Beat
• 15m (49ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Fuzzy Wobble
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Roy Batty
• 7 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Manic
• 5 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Hermetically Sealed
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Moloko Plus
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Droog
• 4 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Le Pissoir
Chicklet Fangs
• 16m (52ft) • FA: John Pogson