Prairie Creek

1

Note:

There are 4 Unnamed climbs where the approach trail meets the wall:


5.11- 8m 4 clips.
5.11+ 8m 5 clips steep and entertaining . Short but quite good.
5.11- 11m 4 clips starts up obvious corner and then steep face on L. A bit weird getting to anchor.
5-10- 10m 5 clips steep bulge to easy slab.

All could do with more cleaning as the builder(s) only cleaned the holds that they used. Also, all the anchors except the corner route need fixing as they comprise single quick-links through hangers so that the lowering link parallels the rock.

The Balcony

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Ape Scrape

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5.10b
Sport

8m (26ft)FA: Tim and Meahgan Mang

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Cheap Thrills and Monkey Skills

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5.11c
Sport

9m (30ft)FA: Tim and Meahgan Mang

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Lemur Screamer

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5.11b
Sport

7m (23ft)FA: Tim Mang and Brand Cooke

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Limp Chimp

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5.10d
Sport

7m (23ft)FA: Tim Mang

The Libido Cafe

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Fat

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5.12d
Sport

10m (33ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Ace Frehley

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5.11c
Sport

10m (33ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Spro

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5.12c
Sport

9m (30ft)FA: JD LeBlanc

Le Secteur Bumbly

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Out on a Limb

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5.10d
Sport

5 bolts13m (43ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Bombus

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5.11a
Sport

5 bolts13m (43ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Sacagawea

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5.10b
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: Darren Tremaine

Anchor - Loose bolt
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Pleb

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5.9
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Grimmia

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5.10a
Sport

4 bolts12m (39ft)FA: Jon Jones

Petra

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Fagin's Fantasy

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5.10b
Sport

6 bolts17m (56ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Babe

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5.11a
Sport

8 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Robot Priests

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5.11d
Sport

8 bolts18m (59ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Temple Recommend (aka A Man and His Camel)

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5.11d
Sport

7 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Knut Rokne

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Deep Shag

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5.13a
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Todd Guyn

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A67

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5.13a
Sport

9 bolts16m (52ft)FA: Ryan Johnston & Daren Tremaine

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Booooties

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5.12c
Sport

Start on A67. Continue right at the large pod and up to finish on Booty Juice.

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A1

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5.13a
Sport

Start on A67. Traverse right after the high shallow pocket Vulcan-grip crux on A67 (7th bolt), falling into the crux of Booty Juice with which you finish. Spicy, depending on clipping choices.

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Heavy Expectations

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5.12d
Sport

Start on A67. Traverse right after the Vulcan move as per A1. Finish on Mighty Expectations.

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57th Expectation

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5.12b

Start on A67. Climb into the big pod and finish right on Mighty Expectations.

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67 Shags

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5.13a
Sport

Start on A67. Traverse left into Deep Shag before the last bolt on A67. Awkward and a bit spicy depending on which bolts you clip (or neglect to clip).

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Heavy Wetting

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5.12d
Sport

10 bolts16m (52ft)FA: Ryan Johnston

Heavy Wetting has effectively been superseded by the more direct climb A67.

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Booty Juice

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5.12d
Sport

10 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Darren Tremaine

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The Mighty Expectation of Relief

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5.12a
Sport

9 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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This Week in Bible Prophecy

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5.12b
Sport

10 bolts17m (56ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Swimming to Cambodia

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5.13a
Sport

11 bolts17m (56ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

Start on Bible Prophecy, traverse left at the bulge past a connecting bolt into Mighty Expectations. Continue left into A67 to finish.

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Saint Daren

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5.12a
Sport

Same start as Bible Prophecy. Once on Mighty, finish as per that route.

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Bible Juice

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5.12c
Sport

Same start as Bible Prophecy. Up and traverse left to where Booty Juice meets. Finish on that line.

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Saint Ryan

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5.12a
Sport

The opposite of St Daren; traversing (right) at the same point on the wall.

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The Blink's Powerful

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5.12a
Sport

5 bolts11m (36ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Slot Jockeys

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5.12b
Sport

4 bolts11m (36ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

The Soft Rock Cafe

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Sidestep

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5.9
Sport

3 bolts9m (30ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Double Digit Inflation

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5.11b
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: Jon Jones

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A Pine in the Ass

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5.11c
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Scat

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5.10b
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Raisin Sex

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5.10c
Sport

6 bolts13m (43ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Seeing Red

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5.9
Sport

5 bolts9m (30ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Blind Faith

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5.10b
Sport

5 bolts13m (43ft)FA: Jon Jones

Midan Tahrir

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Hot Pants Explosion

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5.12c
Sport

5 bolts11m (36ft)FA: Marcus Newman

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English Soccer Hooligans

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5.11c
Sport

5 bolts13m (43ft)FA: Marcus Newman

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The Jester

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5.11b
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Escape Pod

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5.11d
Sport

7 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Core Shot

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5.13d
Sport

15m (49ft)FA: Adam Currie

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Con Dila

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5.13a
Sport

8 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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The Silver Rocket

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5.13a
Sport

7 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Westland Dodge

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5.12b
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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The Cryocooler

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5.11b
Sport

7 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

Illusion Buttress

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Playing the Slots

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5.11b
Sport

4 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Partners in Crime

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5.12a
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Bottom Feeder

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5.12b
Sport

7 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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No Rest for the Wicked

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5.12a
Sport

5 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Jon Jones

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There Goes the Neighbourhood

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5.10b
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Jon Jones

The Korova Milk Bar

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Chicklet Fangs

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5.10c
Sport

6 bolts

Start ~20m uphill from Alberta Bound/Got Mersey Beat. Climb up the steep, bulge, moving left until below an open book corner. Climb up into the corner with difficulty and then cruise to the top. There is a "right" way and a hard way to do this.

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Alberta Bound

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5.9
Sport

15m (49ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Got Mersey Beat

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5.8
Sport

15m (49ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Fuzzy Wobble

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5.11c
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Roy Batty

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5.12c
Sport

7 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Manic

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5.12b
Sport

5 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Hermetically Sealed

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5.12a
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Moloko Plus

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5.11a
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Droog

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5.10b
Sport

4 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Jon Jones

Le Pissoir

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Chicklet Fangs

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5.10c
Sport

16m (52ft)FA: John Pogson