Cougar Canyon

The "X" is actually a Roman numeral and so should be pronounced "ten" and not "ex." However, this distinction has been lost and most climbers today (the author included) pronounce it "planet ex." This is one of Alberta's premier crags for higher end grades. Many of the routes are long, so bring a 70 m rope and 18-20 draws. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope - some of the longer routes are rope stretchers, even with a 70 m rope. And wait for a warm day - the cliff faces north and never sees the sun.

Access: Planet X is located near Canadian Forks, Cougar Creek (see page 159). Opposite (to the south of) the bend in Canadian Forks cliff (where it changes orientation from south- to east-facing), there is small treed drainage. Follow this (poor to no trail) for about 10 minutes until it turns right; Planet X is the impressive 60 m high cliff on the right.

Topo courtesy of Derek Galloway. Text (and errors) by Jon Jones.

This is the very first crag you will reach about 12 minutes from the car. It is on the right (SE) side of the creek just before the first wash on the right.

Rock has been piled high against the base of this crag, leading to a very low set of first bolts and shortening these routes. Stick clipping the 2nd bolts is recommended.