Important Safety Notice

Rock climbing is a potentially dangerous sport, and anyone who does not fully recognize this fact should not use any of the information provided herein. The information only provides the location and approximate path followed by the various climbs and offers no advice, expressed or implied, as to how they may be safely ascended or descended. The contents of the information provided are subject to errors and omissions and to changes that may take place over time. Anyone in doubt of their ability to safely climb and descend from any of these routes is strongly advised to not go on the route or to use the services of a registered mountain guide.

Lake Winnewanka

Grand Minnewanka

5.10d

Trad

• 7 pitches • FA: Paul Taylor, Paul Gardner

5.10d A1

New route on a previously unclimbed wall in the Minnewanka area (bike approach).

The setting is spectacular with a remote feels, and the climbing is varied and enjoyable.

Note: Biking trail restrictions seasonally July 10 to Sept 15. Recommend going before or after these dates.

East facing cliff with sun until about 1:30pm (shady and often windy later in the day).

A few moves of aid are required to overcome the huge obvious roof system, but don’t be deterred, it is exposed and fun and I think this adds to the experience.

Pitch 4 seeps for a day or two after heavy rain.

Approach (1:45 total including bike ride):

- Bike the popular Minnewanka shoreline mountain bike trail for 45min (7.4km), until the trail crosses a small dry drainage full of talus which runs all the way to the lake. The wall is visible directly up the drainage. If you reach a bridge it means you’ve gone too far.

- Hide your bike in the trees then hike up the talus filled drainage almost all the way to its end, then angle up and left along the base of the wall and locate the start of the route based on the photos. About 50 minutes hiking.

Recommended gear: Bikes, Single set cams to 3", Set of nuts, Single 70m rope, 10 draws including several extendable, tape or hand jam gloves optional but nice to have, hiking pole useful for talus approach and descent.

Pitch details:

1: 5.10b, 35m, 4 bolts plus gear: Scramble up ledges aiming for 1st bolt, then climb the shallow right facing corner system for 15m (2 more bolts plus gear) until a terrace is reached. Traverse right for a few meters as soon as feasible, then trend up right to a large comfortable ledge with 2 bolt anchor.

2: 5.10d, 25m, 5 bolts plus gear: From the belay step left below the bulge until the 1st bolt can be clipped. Make a difficult move to get over the bulge then reach up and follow good incuts past more bolts to reach the gap in the small overhang. Overcome this with some jamming on the left and continue up the steep groove system. After the 5th bolt trend up and right with easier climbing to a large ledge.

3: 5.8, 25m, 3 bolts plus gear: Climb up from the belay for 5m, then easily traverse left for 10m staying beneath the 2 visible bolts. Keep traversing until an arête is reached, then climb up about 8m to locate the bolt belay in a small scoop.

4: 5.10d A1, 20m, 7 bolts plus gear: Climb up the crack system to the spectacular roof above. Free hanging aid through the roof crack and through a flaring slot (using cams and a bolt). The bolted anchor is 5m above the roof on the right side of big ledge.

5. 5.10a, 50m, 3 bolts plus gear: Make an awkward step to enter the chimney, then the climbing is easy up to the 1st bolt (about 8m). Commit to a few meters on the outside edge of the chimney and then you will reach a stance and the 2nd bolt. Continue straight up whilst placing gear and eventually the chimney will narrow to a hand crack exit. Belay at 2 bolts on the ledge directly above.

6: 5.9, 40m Gear: Climb the crack system that angles up and slightly right from the belay. Continue up the obvious (but initially out of view) right facing continuous corner and crack system until it ends at a large ledge with ring bolts. Good gear exists throughout. Note there is an intermediate rappel only station part way up this pitch, located on the arête to the left.

7: 5.10a 45m, 6 bolts, Follow bolts up the arête on the right. Either stop at the ring bolts after 25m, or continue up easy rock to the bolted station on a large ledge above.

Descent:

Several intermediate rappel stations exist to make it feasible to rappel the entire route with a single 70m rope. For the hike out, descending more steeply from the wall directly to the drainage is faster than retracing your steps exactly.