Important Safety Notice

Rock climbing is a potentially dangerous sport, and anyone who does not fully recognize this fact should not use any of the information provided herein. The information only provides the location and approximate path followed by the various climbs and offers no advice, expressed or implied, as to how they may be safely ascended or descended. The contents of the information provided are subject to errors and omissions and to changes that may take place over time. Anyone in doubt of their ability to safely climb and descend from any of these routes is strongly advised to not go on the route or to use the services of a registered mountain guide.

Mount McGillivray

McGillivray Slabs

Pythagoras

Pixie

Imagination

Tony's Route

7-Up

Pitter Patter

Rubble Without A Cause

Hiatus

Kahl Crack

Tennessee Bushwhackin'

5.9

Trad

• 275m (902ft) • FA: Brandon Pullan and Savannah Manning

Morningside

5.7

Sport

• 15 bolts • 4 pitches • 144m (472ft) • FA: Jim Gudjonson & Ken Wylie

Four pitch bolted 5.7 route on McGillivray Slabs.
Located next to Kahl Crack.
Easy to miss 2nd station. Count your clips and watch for it.

Walk off or Rap with double ropes.

Raspberry Ramble

Taiga

5.7

Trad

• FA: Brandon Pullan

McGillivraneering

5.9

Trad

• 6 pitches • 200m (656ft) • FA: Brandon Pullan

McGillivray Bowl

Old Man Rules

5.10c

Sport

• 10 pitches • FA: Andy Genereux

Rule Breaker

5.12a

Sport

Variation on Old Man Rules. 5.12a or A0 5.11b.

The Black Lagoon

5.10a

Sport

• 14 bolts • 5 pitches • 160m (525ft) • FA: Matt Laird

Creature from the Black Lagoon (extension)

5.11a

Sport

• 10 bolts • 300m (984ft) • FA: Matt Laird

Gobi Buttress

Gobi65

5.10a

Trad

• 6 pitches • 265m (869ft) • FA: Ian Greant, Brandon Pullan, Maarten van Haeren

This six-pitch mixed route ascends the centre line of Gobi Buttress on the NNE side of Mount McGillivray. The route climbs an aesthetic buttress on above-average quality limestone with some worthwhile gear climbing.

Mount McGillivray

McGillivray Buttress

5.10a

Trad

• 8 pitches • 250m (820ft) • FA: Dave Peabody, Mark Taylor

Mixed, 12 draws, single rack to 2”, knife blades optional, 70m rope if rapping

The ridge was followed to the summit ridge where an easy traverse is made to the summit of Mt. McGillvray. One additional 35m pitch of 5.6 – 5.7 climbing requiring some gear and with 3 more bolts was climbed on the way up to the summit ridge. A rappel was made from trees climbers left on the descent. It may be possible to avoid this pitch by traversing to the left but this was not explored. The route is set up to be rappelled with a 70m rope, but some raps (especially the lowest one) are stretchers so be sure to tie knots!

McGillivray Pond

A new sport crag from Gerry Drotar with 10 routes and one gear climb. Bolted spring 2016. 8 quickdraws and a 60m rope.
Either park in the large pull out overlooking the small island with flags and picnic table in Lac des Arcs
(westbound lanes, necessitates a sprint across the highway – not recommended). Alternatively, from the
eastbound lanes pull off just before the guardrail begins. Park in the ditch or at a small clearing just
above.

Locate flagging a few meters to the south then turn right for few more meters before heading steeply
uphill on a good trail. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes until it intersects the Trans Canada multi-use
trail. Turn right and in less than 100meters turn left following a trail up the left side of a small, usually
dry creek. 5 minutes of sometimes steep uphill brings you to the Irish Mist ice climbing area where the
trail continues up to the right, arriving at the Anxiety Headache arête. 15 minutes from the car to the
crag.

Hit

5.11c

Sport

Good Foot

5.10d

Sport

Rock & Rabbit

5.9

Sport

Bill and Rose

5.5

Trad

Anxiety Headache

5.11c

Sport

Gill's Groove

5.10c

Sport

Bouncing Bluetooth

5.10c

Sport

Power of Now

5.11b

Sport

Pond Ripple

5.10a

Sport

Squirrel

5.10a

Sport

Owel

5.9

Sport