Important Safety Notice

Rock climbing is a potentially dangerous sport, and anyone who does not fully recognize this fact should not use any of the information provided herein. The information only provides the location and approximate path followed by the various climbs and offers no advice, expressed or implied, as to how they may be safely ascended or descended. The contents of the information provided are subject to errors and omissions and to changes that may take place over time. Anyone in doubt of their ability to safely climb and descend from any of these routes is strongly advised to not go on the route or to use the services of a registered mountain guide.

The Rimwall

Pinko

5.9

Trad

• 10 pitches • FA: George Hauer, Jon Jones

Gear: We brought a single rack to three inches, I would double up on the big stuff. one 70m rope.
Approach: From West Wind Pass hike along base of Rim Wall until first obvious right facing corner, scramble up to base of crack.

P1: 40m 5.9 Up the corner, awkward start. At top traverse right to a corner, belay.
P2: 40m 5.8 Continue up corner, easy ledges to steeper moves. Belay on small ledge, good stance on arete out of rock fall.
P3: 65m 5.9+ Two cracks above, stay in the left one, good jams and stems to a piton and rusty bold on the face. Thin face moves, difficult, to easier climbing. Step left into a groove, up another easy crack and ledges, over a bulge to a good belay on a mossy ledge below crack, belay.
P4: 20m 5.4 Do not go up, step left blindly around the corner and across a ledge to a groove/crack.
P5: 60m 5.9+ Up the groove easily to a steep crack. Big stems and good jams in a crack on the left wall gets you up to a ledge with a piton, climb up and left onto another ledge around arete. The original route might have belayed at piton and gone up easy looking crack above, we joined into it two pitches higher.
I believe we were off route for the next two pitches. The research continues.
P6: "Grimwall Traverse" 40m 5.7R Up a steep crack to a left traversing ledge, go left, no pro after this. The ledge ends at a blank wall, commit to a shallow foot rail to the far face, up the steep wall and good rock to a ledge below a roof.
P7: "Woodhead Chimney" 60m 5.9+ Right on bad rock and towards a chimney. Difficult moves to get in, climb to a roof, large blocks, good pro. Pull through the roof on the left and stem to a ledge. Climb the steep wall above, loose rock, belay on ledge on top. This is where I believe the original route joins for the left ward traverse.
P8: 30m 5.7 Up short corners to good rock that heads left, downclimb under big corner to good belay ledge. Above should be the large steep corner that dominates this part of the cliff, a dirty roof is 20m above.
P9: 60m 5.9 Climb out left up a wide crack, awkward moves around a flake, old gear fixed inside (origial Moac made in the 60's!) At the top of the crack step left and up steep bulges to a slab and crack, belay under a roof, semi hanging belay.
P10: 30m 5.8 Step up and right into an unlikely groove, good rock, bypass roof on the right. Ramble to the top.
Descent: Down Rim Wall trail.

Rim Job

5.10a

Trad

• 400m (1312ft) • FA: Brandon Pullan, Matt Brooks

On the north face of the Rim Wall rises a chimney crack system about 100m or so right of Candle in the Wind (the obvious arête). Start 15m to the right in a short corner.

Climb a pitch to a ledge, traverse left into corner. Up the corner, deviating out left in some spots, where the obvious corner peters out climb a steep slab (fixed pin) into the upper awkward chimney to an interesting finish. No bolts.

Rimwall Ice

Oliver Twist

WI3

Ice/Mixed

• 20m (66ft) • FA: Brendan Clark, Simon Trudel, Kris Nielson, Patti Nielson

This nice ice climb features a lower angle bottom section and a more vertical section at the top. The ice is in fantastic shape and is fat. The climb was also in shape back in late November, so it's likely a great option for early season ice. The flow is probably wide enough to fit 2 ropes on it for running laps off the freshly bolted anchor.

This climb is located up the major drainage that heads to the peak known as The Orphan. Simply park alongside the highway and follow the scrambler's route up - the ice is clearly visible on the left-hand side. Approach: 1.4 km, 250m gain - about 30 minutes.

NOTE: There are significant avalanche slopes on the approach and the drainage is a terrain trap. Take caution when there is snow on the approach slopes (it's completely dry right now). There are large slopes above the climb as well, but it's not as directly exposed to avalanche terrain.

The route is top-rope friendly. Easiest top-rope access is to head up into the trees to the left of where the large diagonal cliff band starts from the creek. Alternatively, you can hike up to the base of the ice and scramble through the cliff band to the right of the ice via 4th class terrain.

I bolted a rappel anchor at the top so top-rope setup and cleanup at the end of the day should be a breeze.

Coordinates
Oliver Twist Ice Climb: N 50 59.669 W 115 20.291
Parking: N 50 59.185 W 115 20.993