See the attached guide for parking, approach, and photos of the routes.
The Sandcastle
This is the first area that is reached and is named for the sandy beige coloured rock. It is a small area, currently with only three climbs, including the hardest of the crag, Large Edible Mouse. It also currently has one closed project.
The Rock is On
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: N-L. Eigler
Easy climbing to the third bolt leads to some interesting moves to gain a tricky blank face. Follow the seam past this to pull funky pockets to get to a victory jug and clip the anchors right at the top of the block.
Large Edible Mouse
• 7 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
Easy at the top and bottom, but real hard where it looks hard. An excellent boulder problem on slopers and tiny feet. Scramble to the first bolt and then put on your shoes. A fixed draw protects the last move of the crux.
Indelible Mouse
• 8 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
Named for the persistence of the packrat that live near these routes. Head up Large Edible Mouse but break right after clipping the fourth bolt. Traverse carefully through some really sandy rock and watching out for packrat poop to get to interesting moves on side pulls and pinches to the anchors. The bottom isn’t great, but the top is fun!
Closed Project
Leaving the main Sandcastle area, this route is found just slightly up the hill and around the corner, just before an impressive looking tree growing straight out of the cliff. Likely around 5.10+. If there is no longer a fixed rope on this route, it is open and can be climbed.
Old Growth
This area was named in reference to Greg Cornell’s old mixed topo. There are numerous large trees in the area, which provide shade for the belayer on hot days. Many of the low bolts found here were set up for top-rope soloing of mixed routes. Please make sure you are starting up the correct routes! To get here, head East from the Sandcastle along the cliff band. The trail will climb sharply and then level out. Once you get amongst the large trees, look up towards the routes. This area stretches for the longest part of the cliff band, currently containing 11 sport routes and 4 closed projects. You will find the longest routes here, as well as some short ones that pack a punch! The routes here range from 5.9 to 5.11c and are listed as follows from left to right.
Closed Project 2
This route is to the left of Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow and heads up through some forced beta down low into slabby but easier climbing above. If there is no longer a fixed rope on this route, it is open and can be climbed.
Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow
• 6 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: E. Gabert
Head up a juggy crack to reach the vertical section. Move side to side to avoid pulling a roof. Climb left at the last bolt to get to the giant crack at the top and clip the anchors.
Eigler Nordwand
• 11 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: N-L. Eigler
Shares a start with Purple Hippopotamus. Cruise to the sixth bolt, then a beautifully blank section followed by a no-hands rest and an overhang near the top. Tallest route at the crag!
Purple Hippopotamus
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: D. Cumming
Starts the same as Eigler Nordwand, heads right at the fourth bolt. High quality rock with good hands and feet, then a blank face to reach the anchors.
Throwing in the Trowel
• 10 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: N. Randell
Adventure climb through chunky blocks and harder moves, pulling roofs and resting on ledges to reach a slab up top. Named after a broken shovel.
Pat's Route (Closed Project 3)
The centre line of the tall wall, this weaves up a weakness in the rock to find good hands and feet. Reach a no hands rest around the halfway point and then tackle a tough boulder problem through a V-shaped notch. A final slabby section near the top where a large boulder came out guards the anchors! If there is no longer a fixed rope on this route, it is open and can be climbed. Likely around 5.9
Mitch's Route (Closed Project 4)
Found just left of 68 Special. A high first bolt is accessed by easy climbing on large ledges, or stick clipping. Find a specific beta on small hands to get through the low crux around mid 5.10 or pull through the bottom 3 draws for ~5.9 A0. Either way, neat moves on good rock continue past this point. If there is no longer a fixed rope on this route, it is open and can be climbed.
68 Special
• 10 bolts • 22m (72ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
Heads up a pillar to the right of the bolt line. Unconventional corner climbing followed by flowy face moves and a specific crux sequence up high.
Reciprocal Space
• 5 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
On the roof feature right of 68 Special. Tricky moves all the way until you get over the roof. Look out for a weird pocket between the 3rd and 4th bolt.
Krummholz
• 7 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
Stems up a corner to a no hands rest, then side pulls up an arch to the anchor.
T.P.
• 8 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: J. Zawalykut
Scramble to first bolt. Climbs a crack and then a column, feeling airy up high but with good jugs.
Successful Monkey
• 7 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: E. Gabert
Slab just right of T.P., simple quality rock, crack at top sometimes contains a shrub.
Full Fledged
• 7 bolts • 18m (59ft) • FA: E. Gabert
Easy slab to a rest, blank white rock, then a roof and anchor above.
Der Falkner
• 7 bolts • 18m (59ft) • FA: N-L. Eigler
Starts on a slab, then overhangs with good holds and a power move to the anchor. Stay right at the roof.
The Farside
This part of the crag was the first to see major development, but the furthest from the trail. Names inspired by the work of Gary Larson. From the Old Growth Sector, continue east along the trail. You will cross past a gully with a rope to assist travel in the winter and follow switchbacks up to the wall. The routes here see the most sun and are the best to climb in the winter. On the left most part of the wall, a significant overhang contains three routes. In the middle, a vertical wall has another three routes. This wall has many different rock bands running through across it, giving a variety of holds. Further to the right, slightly up the hill are two routes on the slab. The routes range from 5.7 to 5.12a and are listed below from left to right.
The Chickens are Restless
• 5 bolts • 10m (33ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
Furthest left climb, up steep face with jugs. Find the secret pocket. Hidden second bolt. Reachy for shorter climbers.
Chickens in Hell
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
Linkup route. Start on The Chickens are Restless, merge with Scotty in Hell for consistent climbing.
Scotty in Hell
• 8 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: M. Schön
Bouldery climb under the overhang. Crux at the start, then balancy high-quality climbing.
Boneless Chicken Ranch (Closed Project 5)
This line goes up the arête between Scotty in Hell and Bee in my Car. Probably in the mid 11s but is taking a long time to clean! If there is no fixed rope on the route, it is good to be climbed!
Bee in my Car
• 9 bolts • 18m (59ft) • FA: D. Cumming
Small roof to massive flake, then face climbing and small edges to victory jugs. Full value.
School for the Gifted
• 7 bolts • 17m (56ft) • FA: Patrick Dwyer
Up an angular column, roof halfway, then edges to the top where it eases off.
First Pants, then Shoes
• 6 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: D. Padeanu
Long chain permadraw marks the route. Right of vertical wall. Pull through a roof into easy climbing.
Braulio’s unnamed climb
• 7 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: B. Puerta
Shares start platform with Conversational Cows. Traverse left and up on good holds to a big ledge, then funky move through the final roof.
Conversational Cows
• 8 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: N. Randell
10m uphill from First Pants, then Shoes. Good jugs after first bolt, then interesting finishing move.