Canmore Wall
• 10 pitches • FA: Christoph Hummel, Michael Duerr and Hubi Zilbauer
This route was put up in tribute to Jiro Kurihara who passed away in an avalanche in Alaska in May 2011.
Jiro was a passionate climber who lived in Canmore because he loved the Canadian Rockies.
The route was bolted ground up on four days in July 2011. Mike Shoemaker, Christoph Spiegel, Aki Tawara, and Patrick Lindsay were patient belay partners on the first four days. Thank you very much.
The original start was by scrambling in from the left but is not recommended due to poor rock.
Gear: 14 quickdraws (some long ones) and two 60 m half or twin ropes (essential for rappel!). No extra gear is required for protection. All anchors are equipped with two bolts and set up for rappelling.
• 450m (1476ft) • FA: Mark Bramble and Anton Korsun
Approach
Once the Highline trail is gained head to the west Avy gully. Start up the break on the east side (left) and follow tree line. Gain trail that allows easy passage right past the cliff. Cont. using flagged trail that works steeply up through the trees east of the Avy gully to ridge. Follow this up to the face with easiest travel at base of face. Approx. 1:15 from Highline.
Route starts approx. 30m west of obvious gully system 100m east of Lex. There is a flat platform just by small tree at base of face. Anchors are bolted (p1 only 1 bolt P12 and 13 gear 2025) with some protection bolts. Set of nuts, double rack to #3 with a #4 and #5. A few pins and Beaks are recommended. Double 70m ropes allow better use of pro especially on p8 as well as easier raping with cleaner pulls.
Pitch Description
As of 2025 there isn’t a bolted anchor at the top of p12 or 13 because of the bent drill bit, some anchors only have 1 ring at the time being backed up by 2nd bolt. The route can seep so give a full day to dry.
P1 45m, 5.3 follow your nose left trending to large ledge left of gully. Single bolt belay.
P2 30m 5.5 Enter right trending gully.
P3 30m 5.8 Cont. up corner gradually steepening to a small roof bypassed on left. 2 bolts.
P4 35m 5.9 Follow corner system to good ledge, be careful of rock fall at anchor.
P5 35m 5.4 Follow gully to loose low angle slope to anchor right of corner.
P6 35m 5.9 Follow corner as it steepens with great climbing to the loose cave. Fixed nut in roof easily backed up with cam and pull the roof awkwardly with good holds above and some loose feet.
P7 35m 5.8 Follow gully left of belay to large ledge. Cont up corner with smooth walls till breaking out right to semi hanging belay. No ring bolt (2025).
P8 35m 5.8r Make fun traverse slightly down and right till at base of steep crack system. Climb over with great holds high right to lower angle slightly loose face with varied pro and a fixed nut. Aim for obvious corner system, once below traverse right on varied rock to good ledge and anchor.
P9 40m 5.10b (burly and awkward) Climb corner system as it steepens and closes off to squeeze chimney. You may have to trail pack. Anchor at mouth of sloped tight cave.
P10 30m 5.4 Traverse to the right from the anchor, once on the face climb up to follow the good semi loose ledge system to Anchor in the great buttress.
P11 25m 5.9 Climb the exciting looking chimney directly above belay.
P12 30m 5.11a 5 bolts (close placements of bolts) Very tecy sequency traverse takes you to a great sea of rock, trend up and left to base of obvious corner crack system, gear belay.
P13 45m 5.8 Using both the crack and corner climb excellent rock till an easier bay and exit gully presents its self right trending about 25m up. Follow watching for loose rock. Good cams found down and left of top.
Descent
1st ascent party set up pin/beak anchor right of Lex exit and did double rope rap to meet with p11 belay. Rap to p10 belay for safer pull. Rap to p8 and cont down with double raps.
Do not climb below another party.