Kanga Crag Multis
Godzilla
• 4 pitches
https://gripped.com/news/godzilla-new-four-pitch-5-9-close-canmore/
Zombie Tsunami
• 38m (125ft) • FA: R. Telfer and B. Spear
Kanga Left
Mysterioso
• 10 bolts • 37m (121ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Cruela
• 10 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Brik Shiite Shak
• 20m (66ft) • FA: Greg Cornell & Gavin Macrae
Low Life
• 7 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Riff Raff
• 8 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Freeblast
• 20m (66ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Kanga Main Wall Left
Canadian Air
• 17 bolts • 50m (164ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Leave Your Hat On
• 16 bolts • 50m (164ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Canadian Cookie
• 45m (148ft) • FA: Joe Josephson
California Dreaming
• 45m (148ft) • FA: Dave Morgan & Chris Perry
Alberta Reality
• 45 bolts • FA: Geoff Powter & Brian Wyvill
Roo’d Awakening
• 25m (82ft) • FA: Geoff Powter & Brian Wyvill
Tourette’s Syndrome
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Brian Wyvill & Geoff Powter
Kanga Main Wall Right
Fowl Play
• 13 bolts • 35m (115ft) • FA: Chris Perry
Superior Cackling Chickens
• 12 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Rocky & Me
• 20 bolts • 55m (180ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Rub Me Right
• 10 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Mark Whalen
Pit Bull Terr-EEOR
• 25m (82ft) • FA: Greg Cornell & Gavin Macrae
Spud Wall
Green Eggs and Yam
• 8 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Chris Miller
I Yam What I Yam
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: D. Stark
Yamorama
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: D. Stark
Y’am Bored
• 6 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Joe Buszowski
Raptor Wall
Little Corner Climb
• 3 bolts • FA: unknown
Shark Attack
• 7 bolts • FA: Greg Golovach
Battle of the Bulge
• 7 bolts • FA: Greg Golovach
Blue Wonder Powder Milk
• 8 bolts • FA: Ben Firth
Raptor
• 9 bolts • 8 pitches • FA: Mark Whalen
EEOR
Parallel Dreams
• 14 bolts • FA: Jon Jones
True Grit
• 17 bolts • FA: Mark Whalen
Eeyore's Tail
• 355m (1165ft)
Recently at least two parties have been confused by a line of bolts and new belay bolts found at the top of the second pitch of EEORs TAIL. On the 1st , due to rock fall, a climber was seriously injured. The climbers, unfortunately off route, climbed some 20m right of EEOR’s TAIL. The off route line attempted has a clear and visible white fixed rope. This line is very loose and has been attempted, possibly climbed, as a direct start to Anasinusdephobia (page 384 of bow valley rock).
For EEOR’s TAIL simply follow the guidebook information and get to the base of the route.
Either follow the guide book description avoiding the Overhanging groove/loose chimney with fixed rope!
Alternatively, identify the black single belay bolt! This bolt is right off the ground and below a small roof. Hard to miss if your in the correct general area! Climb the line of THREE bolts found on the slab to the left and up to the base of a pillar, some gear and a FOURTH bolt lead you to the original “first bolted” belay stance, it was retro-bolted along with all other stations on the route last year. Continue following guide book descriptions.
From Sarah Hueniken.
"Just thought I would post a brief message about the route Generosity on EEOR. Great route, on very good rock and well protected! The topo and route description I found on line shows the route starting just right of a cave and trees. The is true...however it is the 2nd cave and trees that you get to after passing Guides Route. Spent a bit of time there deciding which buttress to go up so thought I would make a note of it. The first station is a little hard to find and the second station ends pretty much directly above the first station, so don't go left like some descriptions say. otherwise, very straight forward route finding, long pitches on great rock and nicely protected. Thanks to all those who put in their hard work to make this climb!"
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A pitch by pitch route description can be found on SummitPost. I can't personally vouch for the accuracy of it as at this time I haven't climbed the route yet.
http://www.summitpost.org/route/438207/Generosity-5-9-13-Pitches.html
• 11 pitches • 335m (1099ft) • FA: Marc Piché, Steve Holeczi
Girls Lie
• 14 pitches • FA: D. Bretzloff, M. Piché
• 11 pitches
This excellent modern mixed route follows a steep, direct natural feature from bottom to top. The rock is mainly excellent and in some places exceptional. Some loose rock does exist but tends to be on the easy pitches. The climbing is varied and exciting and most of the belays are on big comfortable ledges, with the exception of pitches 5 and 6 which just have small foot ledges. Recommend the #4 for the last 10a hand crack (amazing!).
Stations 1-8 are all equipped with ring bolt anchors. Station 9 is a single bolt and gear and after that arboreal belays exist.
Second Buttress
• 8 pitches
Approach: Park at upper grassi, hike the trail for True Grit and continue along the base of EEOR into the first bowl. Hike high and aim for what's in the photo below. 1.5 hours from car.
P1,2: Climb a 15m 5.5 jacked wall to ledge and go right on ledge to base of ridge (5.4 90m)
P3,4: Up the ridge starting on the right and follow the obvious line up short steps on solid rock. Alpine looseness, be careful (5.5 140m)
P5: Up right on solid stone along the base of the headwall with fun traverse moves to piton anchor (5.5 70m).
P6: Step right and up loose pillar to vertical wall and piton. Good holds to ledge and piton anchor (5.6 20m).
P7,8: Continue up easy ridge to main trail (5.3 100m). Drop gear, Continue to the summit.,
Descent: Head down and back into first bowl via a steep trail.
Eastern Posers
• 450m (1476ft)
Begin in the large scooped bowl below the large upper east face. Climb a few hundred meters of easy terrain to get to a left slant. Up the slant (5.8) 60m to a ledge with a bolt. From here traverse left on ledge to a loose rib, up to a bush in cave and then left up a difficult and steep run out face (5.9+R) 70m back right to bolt below a corner (belay). Up the corner to a wet polished slab (5.9R) to an awkward steep corner, one good cam on pitch (#3) 50m.
From here climb two pitches up the stunning corner in solid rock to a small ledge (5.9) , traverse left below gully and a bolt for a belay. Up the easier gully and low angle rubble to top. Hike off.
Rack: gear to 3 inches, 70m ropes and a small selection of pitons.
The 5.9+R pitch is similar to the last pitch of Freak Out on Yam, just longer.
Hand drilled bolts, no power drill.. 3 on route only for belays.
North Face
• 3 pitches • FA: Brandon Pullan, Adam Campbell
Approach: Hike to the base of EEOR via True Grit trail, hike along base and into first bowl beneath north face of EEOR. Continue along until the wall almost becomes a low angle slab. Find the bolts down and right of the obvious crack up high right of a white/yellow wall. About one hour from the car.
P1: Up the smooth slab with good features. Traverse left (extend draw) into steep corner and up to low angle terrain. Good .75 placement before two-piton anchor, lots of options to back up the anchor (5.10b 35m).
P2: Up the small pillar and into the splitter crack. Some good face holds and big stems. Crack starts at .75 and ends with a 3". Once you can move left, head into chimney and up hand crack on face. Follow easy terrain to two-piton anchor (5.10b 35m).
P3: Up easy terrain right to ledges (5.3 30m)
Descent: Continue along ledges into bowl until obvious scree gully, scramble down.
Gear: Single rack to 3", double 1" and 2"
Named in memory of Marc-Andre Leclerc who free-soloed EEOR's Tail on EEOR and Cheesmond Express on Ha Ling in a few hours and called it "the Canmore halfpipe."