Goat Wall
• 18 bolts • 21 pitches • 605m (1985ft) • FA: T. Kirkland and M. Carlson
A long fully bolted route on the Goat Wall, next to Goat Buttress.
Requires one 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, and 6 shoulder length slings.
Approach route: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Odk67i6f_lc_LxLWsyrvT0MvSK0&usp=sharing
Expect to take 9 to 13 hours on the ascent.
Descent is by rappelling the route (2-3 hours recommended,) or continuing to the summit and downclimbing the one of the ridges (4 hours? If you really like hiking and scrambling, it sounds OK.)
The walk off can go a couple of ways I guess. Towards the west col on Yam or Loder peak:
Yam Col - It took us 1/2hr to get to the true summit of Goat peak(north peak). We went to the north from the anchors and wrapped up and around to the summit, basically on the ridge. Mostly scree over slabs with a bit of exposure at first. It looked like the west Yam col was quite close at that point. I would guess that descent would take 2.5-3.5 hours to the Yam parking?? I know the scramble descent to the Yam col is kind of loose and crappy, but passable.
Loder - We only chose Loder because it made our vehicle retrieval easier. It went OK, there was one exposed ledge walk/down climb (a 30cm wide ledge with lots of exposure) that we encountered (we roped up). Other than that it was basically a hike. We also missed the critical goat trail that skirts one of the peaks, so that cost some time. This critical goat trail leaves the ridge and travels well off on the east side to avoid the southern peak of Goat. There’s no doubt the Loder route is the long way ‘round! My feet still hurt :-)
Which way people go is a judgment call I suppose. To each their own…
Goat Buttress
• 11 pitches • 375m (1230ft)
Gotcha
• 11 pitches • 515m (1690ft)
Oreamnos
• 12 pitches • 450m (1476ft)
Manitou
• 16 pitches • 580m (1903ft)
The Greater Spirit
• 480m (1575ft)
5.10 A0
Goatman
12 pitches • 480m (1575ft)
Wendigo
• 15 pitches • 535m (1755ft)
• 8 pitches • FA: Andy Genereux, Peter Gatzsch
The route is located to the right of the route “Wendigo” detailed on a cliff photo on page 82 of “Bow Valley Rock” (guide) by Chris perry and Joe Josephson. The line ascends a devious line up dark grey rock to enter a huge hanging U-shaped gully from the left. This obvious feature is located roughly near the center of “Goat Wall” one hundred metres below the summit ridge. At the base of the cliff locate an obvious right facing dihedral located below and just left of this obvious feature on the upper face. This hanging gully “drains” a huge hidden bowl and much of the upper mountain.
The Ramp
• 7 pitches
• 7 pitches • 345m (1132ft) • FA: Andy Genereux, Peter Gatzsch
This climb is located on the upper reaches of Goat Mountain following the good grey
rock left of the climb “The Wild Colonial Boys” described in “Bow Valley Rock” page 87.
The route is a mixture of protection bolts with extensive natural protection.
All belays but the final one are bolted.
The Wild Colonial Boys
• 7 pitches • 295m (968ft)
Rif Raf Ridge
• 5 pitches • 300m (984ft) • FA: Brandon Pullan and Darren Vonk
Approach: As for west end of Yam, cross col to Goat Mountain and base of ridge.
Descent: Scramble down climbers right to large top of large bowl, rap off slung blocks and trees: 6 single rope rappels.
NOTE: The route is mostly class 5 with 4 steeper steps requiring ropes. some rock is loose but gets really great higher up. the position and vantage of Yam is nice. There is a nice crack system for the upper half.
P1)start on the south side of the ridge below a short crack, loose, up to a small tree then continue up and left on fine stone to a group of trees. 60m,5.6
P2)Up ridge on easy terrain to base of headwall with cracks. 60m
P3)Awesome cracks lead to easier ground, climb towards the steep prow with a weakness in its middle 55m, 5.6
P4)Up to the weakness in the prow, stay left to roof then bust left on good holds with an awkward move, little gear. Continue up ridge. 60m, 5.8
P5)Up ridge to summit.
Goat Slabs
• 22 pitches • FA: Andy Genereux & Urs Kallen
This is a very good route that climbs a direct line from the lowest to the highest point on Goat Slabs. Overall the rock quality is very good to excellent and the climbing consistent at the 5.9 and 5.10 grades.
That said, this is an alpine rock climb in the Canadian Rockies and the route has not been manicured to sport standards. Expect to encounter some loose rock. There are also a couple of scree covered ledges to negotiate, thus wearing a helmet is advised. Although rated 5.10d do not take this route lightly there is a lot of climbing at the stated grades. The leader will have to be competent and be comfortable placing traditional protection at these grades.