First Rock
Brownout
• 8 bolts • 27m (89ft) • FA: John Martin
Potentilla Pillar
• 10 bolts • 27m (89ft) • FA: John Martin
Heartline
• 10 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: John Martin
A Dream of White Schauzers
• 10 bolts • 35m (115ft) • FA: John Martin
Heartfelt
• 10 bolts • FA: John Martin
Trio
• 4 bolts • 11m (36ft) • FA: John Martin
Less than Zero
• 4 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: John Martin
Back to Zero
• 5 bolts • 13m (43ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Feel On
• 5 bolts • 13m (43ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Feel On Baby
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Dynamic Dumplings
• 4 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Survival of the Fattest
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: John Martin
Cavebird
• 7 bolts • 17m (56ft) • FA: Walter Lee
Pyramid Power
• 4 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: John Martin
Midnight Rambler
• 4 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Sweet Souvenir
• 4 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: E.J Plimley and Michael Tessier
Honky Tonk Woman
• 10m (33ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Voodoo Lounge
• 3 bolts • 10m (33ft) • FA: John Martin
Let it Bleed
• 9 bolts • 22m (72ft) • FA: John Martin
Paint it Black
• 10 bolts • 21m (69ft) • FA: John Martin
Bitch
• 18m (59ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Steel Wheel
• 7 bolts • 18m (59ft) • FA: John Martin
Sticky fingers
• 6 bolts • 18m (59ft) • FA: Andy Genereux and Bill Rennie
Dandelions
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Dead Flowers
• 7 bolts • 19m (62ft) • FA: Andy Skuce
Brown Sugar
• 3 bolts • 10m (33ft) • FA: John Martin
Heartburn
• 3 bolts • 10m (33ft) • FA: John Martin
Heartburn direct
• 4 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: John Martin
Wild Horses
• 5 bolts • 12m (39ft) • FA: John Martin
Heart and Sole
Itchy Jig
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Sole Food
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Heart and Sole
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Mr Percival
• 4 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
The Solstice
Electric Koolaid Ocean
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Herbivore Dance
• 4 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Iron Eclipse
• 6 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Tribal Wedding
• 4 bolts • 16m (52ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Merry Pranksters
• 5 bolts • 14m (46ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Jupiter Rock
Limicoline P1
• 12 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: John Martin
Limicoline P2
• 4 bolts • 15m (49ft)
Riparian
• 11 bolts • 35m (115ft) • FA: Andy Skuce
Aphrodite
• 8 bolts • 24m (79ft) • FA: John Martin
Venus
• 10 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Ganymede
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: John Martin
Brontes
• 8 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Brontes to Zippy
• 9 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: John Martin
Zippy the Pinhead
• 9 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: John Martin
Callisto
• 10 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: Chris Perry
For Yours Eyes Only
• 10 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Puppet on a Chain
• 8 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Pacemaker
• 9 bolts • 26m (85ft) • FA: John Martin
Heart of Darkness
• 9 bolts • 26m (85ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Crimson TIde
• 11 bolts • 27m (89ft) • FA: John Martin
Heart of Gold
• 12 bolts • 26m (85ft) • FA: Andy Genereux
Last Call
• 11 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: John Martin
Jupiter Rock South
Kepler
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Dancers at the End of Time
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Avatar
Music of the Spheres
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Galileo
• 9 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: John Martin
Sleeping Beauty
• 10 bolts • 35m (115ft) • FA: John Martin
Glide
• 6 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: John Martin
Night and Day
• 11 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Jason Rennie and Graig Langford
Original Route
• 10 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Chris Perry
Fetish
• 11 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: John Martin
Illusive Edge
• 8 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: John Martin
Hell's Bells
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: John Martin
Patriots Groove
Data on Demand
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Nigel Slater
Heartbeat
• 14 bolts • 37m (121ft) • FA: John Martin
New Patriot
• 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Blackheart Amphitheatre has a history of reconnaissance, route building attempts, aid ascents and looser rock. Expect cerebral routefinding on bands of alternating excellent and not-so-excellent rock. It is advisable to wear a helmet until these routes see enough traffic. It is also advisable to have a full 70m rope for all longer routes.
To Access: Follow main trail to the Blackheart Area. Gain path that angles up backwards towards the cliff skirting steep slabs. Either approach the belay ledge via the less-than-stellar Ground Floor Going Up (5.8+) or the brand new via feratta located farther to the right. Ensure you harness up and clip into the cable with a couple of slings and biners to stay safe.
Descent: Rappel from fixed anchors past the rooty short cliff (30m!), or simply reverse the via feratta.
Look at Us
• 8 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: Mason Tessier
Look At Us Ext (Closed)
• 30m (98ft)
Don't Poke the Bear
• 8 bolts • FA: Mason Tessier
Closed Project
• 100m (328ft)
Muffin Crumb
• 6 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Ian Goodbrand
Polish Punch
• 6 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Warmed by the Devil's Fire
• 7 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Knut Rokne
The Good Life
• 7 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Ground Floor, Going Up?
• 10 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Book of Eli
• 12 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Matron Saint
• 12 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Slackline King
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Lord of the Rungs
• 13 bolts • 32m (105ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Arrival of the Fittest
• 14 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
The Convincer
• 11 bolts • 31m (102ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Sling Thing
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Randy Coleman, FFA Knut Rokne
Skyscraper
• 9 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: Randy Coleman, FFA Knut Rokne
Obi Juan Kenobi
• 25m (82ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Friday Night Sloper Party
• 14 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Life of Brian
• 15 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
The Condenser
• 15 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Cruising the Milky Way
• 15 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Blackheart
Half a Heart
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Kiss and Tell
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Have a Heart
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Shoot from the Hip
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin,
Heart Throb
• 11 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: John Martin
Bleeding Heart
• 9 bolts • 22m (72ft) • FA: John Martin
Braveheart
• 10 bolts • 25m (82ft) • FA: John Martin
Blackheart direct
• 10 bolts • 35m (115ft) • FA: John Martin
Heart of Stone
• 11 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Heartbreaker
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Bunny Hill
Heartless
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Rat in a Cage
• 4 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Chip Butty
• 3 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Simple
• 4 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
You Oughtta Know
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Come As You Are
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Until It Sleeps
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Contemporary Cuisine
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Chris Miller
Rough But Well Groomed
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Chris Miller
Savoir Faire
• 12 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: John Martin
Poodle Springs
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Carpe Diem
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Waterfall Wall
Late Shift
• 10 bolts • 65m (213ft) • FA: John Martin
Omnivore
• 10 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: John Martin
Big Chill
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Trails End
• 8 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Masterbretter
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Brett Mitchelson
Les Nuages
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
52 Pickup
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Lazarus Direct
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Lazarus
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Pav Lazic, 1984; John Martin, 1993
Stretchmarks
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Downdraft
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Gridlock
• 4 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
The Bayon
Old Timer
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: JD LeBlanc; FFA Scott Milton
Beat Farmer
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Palm Sisters
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Dave Carley
An Arm and a Leg
• 7 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Randy Coleman
Mumblebunny
• 9 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Randy Coleman
Mumblebunny direct start
• 20m (66ft) • FA: Scott Milton
Kung Pow
• 10 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Splash Down
• 10 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Derek Galloway
Tub Trauma
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Darren Tremaine; FFA Lev Pinter
Sonnie's Route
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Sonnie Trotter
Barb Wire
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Derek Galloway
Intergalactic Planetary
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Josh Muller,
May the Funk Be With You
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Salty
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Throbbing Affirmation of Love, The
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Daren Tremaine
Dutch Boy Magic
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Nils Preshaw
Hecubus
• 2 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Marcus Norman
Clump
• 2 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Mark Norman
Short-lived Freedom
• 1 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: Joel Labonte
Upper Heart Crag
Chase the Lady
• 9 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Black Maria
• 8 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Fear of Flying
• 8 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Quicksilver
• 7 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Valentine
• 12 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Warm Heart
• 10 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Cold Hands
• 6 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Cool Blue
• 7 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Stanley Stumbles
• 11 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Livingstone Falls
• 12 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Darkest Africa
• 13 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Touch and Go
• 9 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Purple Haze
• 8 bolts • 45m (148ft) • FA: Jon Jones
Golden Arch Crag
Bones on the Moon
• 8 bolts • 40m (131ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Gerg Lenrock Pounds Mr Slate
• 7 bolts • 40m (131ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Harder than Ron Jeremy
• 7 bolts • 40m (131ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Interview with the CMC Vampire
• 5 bolts • 40m (131ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
1970s Rock Olympics
• 5 bolts • 40m (131ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
For Sportbras and Pantilines
• 4 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Gumboot Cloggeroo
• 5 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
The Drill Sergeant
• 5 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Fiddles over Kandahar
• 3 bolts • 15m (49ft) • FA: Greg Cornell
Sixth Bridge
A Space Oddity
• 3 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Cy Michaud
Predator II
• 4 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: John Martin
Andromeda Strain
• 3 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Cy Michaud
Klingon
• 2 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Cy Michaud
Lost in Space
• 12 bolts • 30m (98ft) • FA: Cy Michaud
Logans Runnel
• 11 bolts • 28m (92ft) • FA: Cy Michaud
Blade Runnel
• 3 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Cy Michaud
Close Encounters of the First Kind
• 2 bolts • 23m (75ft) • FA: Cy Michaud
Signpost 8
Hardball
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Andante
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Luminado
• 6 bolts • 20m (66ft) • FA: John Martin
Unknown
• 5 bolts • 20m (66ft)