Heart Creek

6

First Rock

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Brownout

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5.10c
Sport

8 bolts27m (89ft)FA: John Martin

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Potentilla Pillar

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5.8
Sport

10 bolts27m (89ft)FA: John Martin

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Heartline

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5.7
Sport

10 bolts28m (92ft)FA: John Martin

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A Dream of White Schauzers

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5.6
Sport

10 bolts35m (115ft)FA: John Martin

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Heartfelt

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5.10c
Sport

10 boltsFA: John Martin

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Trio

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5.6
Sport

4 bolts11m (36ft)FA: John Martin

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Less than Zero

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5.8
Sport

4 bolts12m (39ft)FA: John Martin

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Back to Zero

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5.9
Sport

5 bolts13m (43ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Feel On

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5.10c
Sport

5 bolts13m (43ft)FA: Andy Genereux

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Feel On Baby

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5.10b
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: Andy Genereux

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Dynamic Dumplings

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5.11a
Sport

4 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Andy Genereux

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Survival of the Fattest

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5.10c
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: John Martin

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Cavebird

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5.9
Sport

7 bolts17m (56ft)FA: Walter Lee

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Pyramid Power

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5.9
Sport

4 bolts12m (39ft)FA: John Martin

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Midnight Rambler

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5.10c
Sport

4 bolts12m (39ft)FA: Andy Genereux

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Sweet Souvenir

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5.11c
Sport

4 bolts12m (39ft)FA: E.J Plimley and Michael Tessier

Anchor - Rusted
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Honky Tonk Woman

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5.10c
Trad

10m (33ft)FA: Andy Genereux

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Voodoo Lounge

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5.11c
Sport

3 bolts10m (33ft)FA: John Martin

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Let it Bleed

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5.10a
Sport

9 bolts22m (72ft)FA: John Martin

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Paint it Black

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5.11a
Sport

10 bolts21m (69ft)FA: John Martin

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Bitch

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5.11b
Trad

18m (59ft)FA: Andy Genereux

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Steel Wheel

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5.10a
Sport

7 bolts18m (59ft)FA: John Martin

Bolts - Loose nut
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Sticky fingers

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5.10c
Sport

6 bolts18m (59ft)FA: Andy Genereux and Bill Rennie

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Dandelions

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5.8
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Dead Flowers

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5.10b
Sport

7 bolts19m (62ft)FA: Andy Skuce

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Brown Sugar

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5.10a
Sport

3 bolts10m (33ft)FA: John Martin

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Heartburn

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5.9
Sport

3 bolts10m (33ft)FA: John Martin

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Heartburn direct

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5.10c
Sport

4 bolts12m (39ft)FA: John Martin

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Wild Horses

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5.9
Sport

5 bolts12m (39ft)FA: John Martin

Heart and Sole

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Itchy Jig

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5.7
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Sole Food

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5.9
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Heart and Sole

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5.9
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Mr Percival

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5.10a
Sport

4 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

The Solstice

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Electric Koolaid Ocean

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5.6
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Herbivore Dance

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5.5
Sport

4 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Iron Eclipse

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5.8
Sport

6 bolts16m (52ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Tribal Wedding

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5.9
Sport

4 bolts16m (52ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Merry Pranksters

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5.10a
Sport

5 bolts14m (46ft)FA: Greg Cornell

Jupiter Rock

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Limicoline P1

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5.10c
Sport

12 bolts25m (82ft)FA: John Martin

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Limicoline P2

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5.10c
Sport

4 bolts15m (49ft)

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Riparian

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5.9
Sport

11 bolts35m (115ft)FA: Andy Skuce

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Aphrodite

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5.10b
Sport

8 bolts24m (79ft)FA: John Martin

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Venus

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5.10a
Sport

10 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Ganymede

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5.10c
Sport

9 bolts25m (82ft)FA: John Martin

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Brontes

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5.11a
Sport

8 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Jon Jones

Anchor - Rusted
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Brontes to Zippy

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5.10a
Sport

9 bolts23m (75ft)FA: John Martin

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Zippy the Pinhead

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5.11a
Sport

9 bolts23m (75ft)FA: John Martin

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Callisto

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5.10a
Sport

10 bolts28m (92ft)FA: Chris Perry

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For Yours Eyes Only

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5.10b
Sport

10 bolts28m (92ft)FA: Andy Genereux

All Bolts - Outdated
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Puppet on a Chain

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5.10c
Sport

8 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Andy Genereux

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Pacemaker

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5.10c
Sport

9 bolts26m (85ft)FA: John Martin

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Heart of Darkness

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5.11b
Sport

9 bolts26m (85ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Crimson TIde

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5.11b
Sport

11 bolts27m (89ft)FA: John Martin

Bolts - Other
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Heart of Gold

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5.10c
Sport

12 bolts26m (85ft)FA: Andy Genereux

All Bolts
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Last Call

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5.10b
Sport

11 bolts28m (92ft)FA: John Martin

Anchor - Loose bolt

Jupiter Rock South

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Kepler

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5.8
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Dancers at the End of Time

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5.10c
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Avatar

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5.10c
Sport
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Music of the Spheres

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5.10a
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Galileo

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5.10a
Sport

9 bolts30m (98ft)FA: John Martin

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Sleeping Beauty

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5.10a
Sport

10 bolts35m (115ft)FA: John Martin

SUMC Butress

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Glide

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5.10b
Sport

6 bolts15m (49ft)FA: John Martin

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Night and Day

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5.10b
Sport

11 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Jason Rennie and Graig Langford

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Original Route

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5.10c
Sport

10 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Chris Perry

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Fetish

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5.10a
Sport

11 bolts23m (75ft)FA: John Martin

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Illusive Edge

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5.10b
Sport

8 bolts23m (75ft)FA: John Martin

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Hell's Bells

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5.8
Sport

9 bolts25m (82ft)FA: John Martin

Patriots Groove

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Data on Demand

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5.11c
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Nigel Slater

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Heartbeat

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5.9
Sport

14 bolts37m (121ft)FA: John Martin

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New Patriot

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5.9
Sport

20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

Upper Amphitheatre

Blackheart Amphitheatre has a history of reconnaissance, route building attempts, aid ascents and looser rock. Expect cerebral routefinding on bands of alternating excellent and not-so-excellent rock. It is advisable to wear a helmet until these routes see enough traffic. It is also advisable to have a full 70m rope for all longer routes.

To Access: Follow main trail to the Blackheart Area. Gain path that angles up backwards towards the cliff skirting steep slabs. Either approach the belay ledge via the less-than-stellar Ground Floor Going Up (5.8+) or the brand new via feratta located farther to the right. Ensure you harness up and clip into the cable with a couple of slings and biners to stay safe.

Descent: Rappel from fixed anchors past the rooty short cliff (30m!), or simply reverse the via feratta.

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Look at Us

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5.12c
Sport

8 bolts30m (98ft)FA: Mason Tessier

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Look At Us Ext (Closed)

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?
Sport

30m (98ft)

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Don't Poke the Bear

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5.11c
Sport

8 boltsFA: Mason Tessier

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Closed Project

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?
Sport

100m (328ft)

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Muffin Crumb

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5.11d
Sport

6 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Ian Goodbrand

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Polish Punch

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5.12b
Sport

6 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Warmed by the Devil's Fire

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5.12b
Sport

7 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Knut Rokne

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The Good Life

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5.12d
Sport

7 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Ground Floor, Going Up?

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5.9
Sport

10 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Book of Eli

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5.13a
Sport

12 bolts28m (92ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Matron Saint

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5.12d
Sport

12 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Slackline King

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5.10d
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Lord of the Rungs

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5.13a
Sport

13 bolts32m (105ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Arrival of the Fittest

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5.12b
Sport

14 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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The Convincer

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5.12a
Sport

11 bolts31m (102ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Sling Thing

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5.11b
Sport

9 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Randy Coleman, FFA Knut Rokne

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Skyscraper

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5.11c
Sport

9 bolts25m (82ft)FA: Randy Coleman, FFA Knut Rokne

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Obi Juan Kenobi

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5.12b
Sport

25m (82ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Friday Night Sloper Party

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5.12c
Sport

14 bolts30m (98ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Life of Brian

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5.12c
Sport

15 bolts30m (98ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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The Condenser

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5.12b
Sport

15 bolts30m (98ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Cruising the Milky Way

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5.12b
Sport

15 bolts30m (98ft)FA: Marcus Norman

Amphitheatre

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Sciatica

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5.10d
Sport

8 bolts140m (459ft)FA: Rob Owens

Blackheart

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Half a Heart

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5.9
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Kiss and Tell

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5.10a
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Have a Heart

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5.10a
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Shoot from the Hip

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5.10c
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin,

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Heart Throb

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5.10b
Sport

11 bolts25m (82ft)FA: John Martin

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Bleeding Heart

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5.11b
Sport

9 bolts22m (72ft)FA: John Martin

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Braveheart

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5.10b
Sport

10 bolts25m (82ft)FA: John Martin

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Blackheart direct

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5.10b
Sport

10 bolts35m (115ft)FA: John Martin

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Heart of Stone

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5.10c
Sport

11 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Heartbreaker

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5.10b
Sport

9 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

Bunny Hill

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Heartless

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5.10c
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Rat in a Cage

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5.10a
Sport

4 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Chip Butty

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5.10a
Sport

3 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Simple

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5.4
Sport

4 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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You Oughtta Know

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5.9
Sport

9 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Come As You Are

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5.9
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Until It Sleeps

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5.10d
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Contemporary Cuisine

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5.10b
Sport

9 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Chris Miller

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Rough But Well Groomed

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5.9
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Chris Miller

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Savoir Faire

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5.10c
Sport

12 bolts28m (92ft)FA: John Martin

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Poodle Springs

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5.10d
Sport

9 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Carpe Diem

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5.10c
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

Bolts - Loose nut

Waterfall Wall

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Late Shift

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5.10a
Sport

10 bolts65m (213ft)FA: John Martin

Bolts - Loose nut
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Omnivore

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5.10d
Sport

10 bolts28m (92ft)FA: John Martin

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Big Chill

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5.11c
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

Bolts - Missing (hanger)
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Trails End

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5.11a
Sport

8 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Masterbretter

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5.11b
Sport

9 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Brett Mitchelson

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Les Nuages

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5.10d
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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52 Pickup

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5.10c
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

Bolts
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Lazarus Direct

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5.11c
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Lazarus

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5.10d
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Pav Lazic, 1984; John Martin, 1993

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Stretchmarks

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5.10d
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Downdraft

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5.10a
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Gridlock

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5.10a
Sport

4 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

The Bayon

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Old Timer

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5.13c
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: JD LeBlanc; FFA Scott Milton

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Beat Farmer

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5.12a
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Palm Sisters

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5.12c
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Dave Carley

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An Arm and a Leg

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5.12b
Sport

7 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Randy Coleman

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Mumblebunny

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5.12c
Sport

9 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Randy Coleman

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Mumblebunny direct start

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5.13b
Sport

20m (66ft)FA: Scott Milton

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Kung Pow

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5.12b
Sport

10 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Splash Down

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5.13c
Sport

10 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Derek Galloway

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Tub Trauma

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5.13a
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Darren Tremaine; FFA Lev Pinter

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Sonnie's Route

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5.13a
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Sonnie Trotter

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Barb Wire

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5.13a
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Derek Galloway

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Intergalactic Planetary

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5.13b
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Josh Muller,

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May the Funk Be With You

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5.13b
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Salty

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5.13a
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Throbbing Affirmation of Love, The

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5.12c
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Daren Tremaine

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Dutch Boy Magic

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5.12d
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Nils Preshaw

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Hecubus

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5.13a
Sport

2 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Marcus Norman

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Clump

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5.11d
Sport

2 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Mark Norman

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Short-lived Freedom

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5.12c
Sport

1 bolts20m (66ft)FA: Joel Labonte

Upper Heart Crag

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Chase the Lady

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5.6
Sport

9 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Black Maria

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5.10c
Sport

8 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Fear of Flying

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5.10d
Sport

8 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Quicksilver

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5.10c
Sport

7 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Valentine

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5.8
Sport

12 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Warm Heart

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5.8
Trad

10 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Cold Hands

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5.9
Sport

6 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Cool Blue

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5.10a
Sport

7 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Stanley Stumbles

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5.9
Sport

11 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Livingstone Falls

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5.11a
Sport

12 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Darkest Africa

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5.10c
Sport

13 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Touch and Go

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5.11b
Sport

9 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

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Purple Haze

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5.10b
Sport

8 bolts45m (148ft)FA: Jon Jones

Golden Arch Crag

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Bones on the Moon

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5.10c
Sport

8 bolts40m (131ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Gerg Lenrock Pounds Mr Slate

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5.10d
Sport

7 bolts40m (131ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Harder than Ron Jeremy

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5.11a
Sport

7 bolts40m (131ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Interview with the CMC Vampire

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5.11a
Sport

5 bolts40m (131ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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1970s Rock Olympics

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5.10c
Sport

5 bolts40m (131ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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For Sportbras and Pantilines

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5.8
Sport

4 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Gumboot Cloggeroo

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5.10b
Sport

5 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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The Drill Sergeant

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5.11d
Sport

5 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Greg Cornell

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Fiddles over Kandahar

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5.8
Sport

3 bolts15m (49ft)FA: Greg Cornell

Sixth Bridge

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A Space Oddity

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5.11b
Sport

3 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Cy Michaud

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Predator II

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5.11b
Sport

4 bolts23m (75ft)FA: John Martin

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Andromeda Strain

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5.10c
Sport

3 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Cy Michaud

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Klingon

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5.10a
Sport

2 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Cy Michaud

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Lost in Space

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5.10b
Sport

12 bolts30m (98ft)FA: Cy Michaud

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Logans Runnel

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5.7
Sport

11 bolts28m (92ft)FA: Cy Michaud

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Blade Runnel

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5.4
Sport

3 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Cy Michaud

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Close Encounters of the First Kind

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5.4
Sport

2 bolts23m (75ft)FA: Cy Michaud

Signpost 8

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Hardball

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5.10a
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Andante

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5.9
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Luminado

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5.10b
Sport

6 bolts20m (66ft)FA: John Martin

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Unknown

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5.10b
Sport

5 bolts20m (66ft)

Heart Line

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Heart Line

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5.9
Sport

14 bolts17 pitches1100m (3609ft)FA: Chas Yonge & Chris Perry

A sport mountaineering adventure which takes you from Heart Creek to the mountain summit! Great views on
the way! Gear: 12 quick draws, 2 long slings